Unfortunately, this parchment won't fill itself in when you solemnly swear you're up to no good. According to Pan, Emma can unlock the map's secrets only when she stops denying who she really is. Riddles! Calling herself an ex-Bostonian doesn't work; neither does citing her past as a "bail bonds person," a description I will never not find funny. Even admitting out loud that she's the Savior doesn't work. What gives? Finally, Regina grows frustrated enough to snatch the map away. She knows she can't break Pan's spell -- but she can transform the map into a Pan homing device.
Alas, Regina's idea works all too well, and in no time the MBC has been drawn straight into a trap. Pan tut-tuts Emma for disobeying his rules -- then sics his Lost Boys on our poor heroes. The good: Hook fights off one of them, sneering, "Remember what I did to Rufio? Well, it's a far worse fate for you!" HA. The bad: Charming takes a poisoned arrow for Snow. And though he tells his wife that the point only pierced his jacket, the prince's honesty track record isn't exactly great tonight.
Eventually, Pan calls off the boys -- if he murdered all his playthings, there would be no guests for his evil tea party! But even though the threat has dissipated for now, Emma's still spiraling down into a deep despair.
The last thing she needs is a pep talk from her mother. Even so, Snow tries to comfort Emma. And as they talk, the truth finally comes out. Emma admits that she can't escape from her old perception of herself: "a lost little girl who didn't matter, didn't think she ever would. A little girl who cried herself to sleep at night because she wanted her parents so bad, and could never understand why they gave her up." Despite her reunion with Snow and Charming, the Savior still doesn't feel fulfilled -- deep down, she's still a sad, lonely orphan.
And with that, the map finally fills itself in.
They'll set north for Pan's camp, where Henry is being held captive, in the morning. In the meantime, Emma's got some Hook-flirting and berry-picking to do. Just don't think this means smooth sailing -- er, jungle-walking -- for the MBC quite yet. Before the night is through, Pan shows up for one final taunting session. He sneers that just as Emma hasn't forgiven Snow and Charming, Henry hasn't forgiven her for abandoning him: "By the time you get to him, he'll never want to leave this island," Pan says, gloating. Oh, and as for Emma? "When we're finished," Pan adds, "you won't just feel like an orphan -- you'll be one."
Cue Charming examining his poisoned wound. Where's a magical curse candle when you need one?
NEXT: Theories about Neverland's perpetual twilight, and other breadcrumbs